Moki 2-in-1 Exhaust for S300
Sorry, currently out of stock
Moki 2-in-1 Exhaust for S300 will be oversized, you cut to correct length and solder the three pieces together. No soldering to the Moki required, it will simply clamp on
These setups give your Moki much more presence, a meaner tone. At all fly-ins even the Moki guys came up and asked me what motor I am running. The difference is subtle to the novice, brings a smile to the experts face. You may or may not even increase a small performance boost.
Not compatible with any other Moki
It will ship in standard "length", length meaning that the T-shaped collector sits a good few inches from the motor, giving you the opportunity to run it that way.
I can modify the exhaust for you as shown on my FW-190 and as shown on the photo where the two variants sit next to each other on my table.
That way the setup hugs the motor, can run out of a cowl "lower".
Place the two L bends on the two exhaust ports. Now set your line of sight up right in front of the motor, level with the exhaust. Now place the "Center-T" behind the two bends. Mark where the tubes need to end. The Center-T is over length as it has to fit all versions of the S215 and S250 out there, and they vary.
Now cut off with a centimeter too much length on each end of the bend.
Now slowly grind/cut away until everything slides together neatly.
Most likely they will come together with a "kick", not in a straight line, which is fine.
Now add High Temp Gasket making Silicone (Permatex etc) to the two exhaust stubs on the ring muffler.
Prep the 2-in-1 metal surfaces
Slide the two L bends over the Center-T
Slide the whole assembly into place on the ring exhaust
Point the exit port of your Center-T to the preferred position
Silver Solder the bends to the Center-T
The fact that the exhaust ports on the ring muffler point AWAY from each other will lock the assembly in place, you are finished, install complete.
Or in more "fun terms":
So, you first want to make sure that it all fits. The bends WILL be too long as we ship ones long enough to fit all generation Moki engines, carefully shorten them until it all fits in length.
Keep in mind that often the bend and T-center piece will NOT be perfectly in line. It again has to do with Moki’s distance from port to port sometime changing over the years.
But all is good, metal is “patient” and the soldering will make it all work.
Now that the length is correct make sure that the T-Center piece is rotated and points where you want it to point. You want to rotate it into the preferred position. Now get old thick cloth and soak it in water, throw it over the motor and have some more water ready. This will serve as your heatshield. At this point you can now even work some high temp Permatex etc into the gaps, meaning: where the two bends are slid over the Moki exhaust ports.
Prepare the metal surfaces, meaning degrease and then slightly sand. Heat up, add the flux, then solder in position. The fact that the exhaust ports point away from each other will lead to the 2-in-1 now being “stuck”, it can no longer slide off of the exhaust ports. You may want to apply some more high temp Permatex.
And yes, if you ever want to remove the system you need to “unsolder” it.